FAQs

To obtain a quote you may find a location to call.

To place an order you may find a location to call or request a consultation quote.

You will see a file upload button on the Contact Us and Working with SpeedPro pages for the individual studio location you choose to work with.

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Glossy finish lamination tends to make prints look more vibrant. Matte and Satin finishes will prevent unwanted glare (important for trade show exhibits or backdrops being used on television or camera) but do not enhance color.

Read more about lamination services here.

SpeedPro digital output is up to 6′ wide by 300′ long roll-fed and 5′ wide by 18′ long flatbed. Output can be tiled to produce full color images any size.

Depending on the substrate used and extreme environmental conditions, SpeedPro produced graphics can last indefinitely under indoor conditions. Outdoor applications, such as banners, can last several years, depending on finishing options like over laminates. All SpeedPro inks are UV-resistant.

Operating System

We run Adobe Creative Suite 4 on PC and primarily print from .eps or .tiff files. For more information about how to set up your files, please reference our file format sheet. We accept files in the following formats: .ai, .psd, .eps, .tif, .pdf, .jpg. Please note that .pdf, and .jpg files cannot be edited. Whenever possible, provide Windows Compatible files.

If you use any program but Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator and cannot convert/export files to .EPS or .TIFF files, please convert to .PDF file. This typically includes Quark, InDesign, Corel, and miscellaneous sign programs.

Please build files as close to actual size as possible, or work in 1/2 or 1/4 scale of output size. It is not necessary to build files with extended bleed or crop marks. For best results, submit vector art and raster art in RGB or CMYK.

Font options

Convert all text to outlines or send all font sets included in file. Please provide highest resolution original versions of linked raster images.

We primarily request you convert all fonts to vector outlines or curves, depending on your program.

Feel free to send us the font files, in PC format. MAC fonts are incompatible with our system and therefore will not work.

Image Sharpness

If your graphics are primarily logos, text, and shapes, vector line art .EPS files provide the sharpest images in large format. Vector line art is based off x/y lines, curves and coordinates, you can enlarge the graphic as large as you like without losing resolution.

If your graphics are raster images (jpeg, tiff, bitmap, gif, etc.), please save files at 150-300dpi @ 100% file size for optimum clarity. Size file proportionately if you need to scale the image down, ex: 150dpi @ 100% = 600dpi @ 25%.

Images copied/pasted off the internet typically do not work well for large format.

Banner and Banner Stands

If you would like us to stitch your banners, please leave a 1.25″ bleed.

If you would like us to stitch banner pole pockets, please follow these directions:

• 4″ extra material required for .5″-.75″ diameter pole
• 6″ extra material required for 1″ diameter pole
• 8″ extra material required for 1.5″ diameter pole
• 9.5″ extra material required for 2″ diameter pole

The bleed for a retractable banner stand can run up to 10” on the bottom, depending on the type of retractable you have.

Read more about how to prepare your images for large format printing here.

Typical turnaround time on a standard project is 24-48 hours. Projects of higher quantity or are more labor intensive require an estimated time of completion from SpeedPro.

Request a consultation quote here.

SpeedPro uses PC Windows workstations but can accept Macintosh files as well.

Read more about how to prepare your images for large format printing here.

Our printers can print up to 1440 x 1440 dpi, with standard print resolution of 720 x 720

Read all about our services here.

Full Color Printing
Exceptional clarity! Our digital printers give us the ability to print at up to 1440 dpi. Our inks will last 3 to 4 years (un-laminated) outdoors without fading and are of archival quality indoors because they are solvent based, waterproof, and UV resistant.

Lamination
Lamination can add a whole new finish to your print. Make your signs glossy, matte, luster or textured. A protective clear coat nearly doubles the life of your prints or signage for a very reasonable price.

Mounting
We can mount your graphics to any of our variety of materials such as foam boards, sheet styrene, aluminum, corrugated plastic, and more! Just let us know what type of use you have, and we will help you select the mounting that is right for your project.

Finishing
We can provide a wide variety of finishing options on all orders including hems, banner grommets and poster board trim to name just a few!

Graphics Design
Our in house graphics designers have experience in everything from simple banners to complex trade show displays and vehicle wraps. Get amazing designs and prints!

Vehicle Graphic Installation
Our in-house installation team can wrap nearly any type of vehicle. Our portfolio includes custom wraps for trucks, cars, RVs, boats, trailers, and fleet graphics.

Window Graphic Installation
One way window perforation is ideal for vehicle graphics or storefront advertising. Window perforation can prove problematic to install properly, so let our professionals take care of it for you!

Wall Graphic Installation
Wall graphics are very effective at building corporate identities and displaying logos. They are easy to care for once they are installed. Our installation team can put up logo graphics on your walls as large or as small as you need.

Decaling
Putting down decals such as door and window lettering is a breeze when you use our on-site installation. Why settle for a decal that is wrinkled or not properly adhered?

Image Scanning & Clean-up
Some graphics simply will not produce a fantastic print straight away. Our graphics team can clear up rough edges, alter many types of text, and modify your graphic exactly the way you need it.

Pantone Color Matching & Proofing
Your logo and brand identity is not up for discussion. Match your exact shades with the Pantone Matching System. We will create a print in miniature on the actual production material and printer for you to approve.

Rush Ordering
We know that sometimes graphics do not get approved on time or a million other hang ups – but that doesn’t mean you can miss a deadline. Not to worry — we will have your prints in your hands when you need it without sacrificing the quality you have come to expect.

Contour Cutting
Graphics can be contour-cut by a dedicated computer plotter. Cutting your graphic to a custom shape has never been easier. A simple vector format outline (which we can create) allows us to trim your graphic with computer precision! Decals and “Fat Heads” are examples of contour cutting.

Custom Job Request
We love a challenge. If you have a project and have been told elsewhere that they do not know to do it or where to start, contact us and talk to one of our graphics specialists.

Framing
Plastic edging in several colors: Pewter, Hi-Polish Black, Matte Black, Gold, Red, Blue, Chrome, and White. Also, paint receptive.

Stands/Displays
Wide array of banner stands including retractable, tension pole, telescopic, outdoor, economy displays, back walls, pop-up display, table throws and runners, table-top products, folding display panels, counters, linear display systems, orbital truss systems, literature racks and luminosity/display lighting.

Depending on the application, we use either the UV-curable or a SpeedPro proprietary eco-solvent ink on all of our printers. UV-curable inks allow us to print directly on almost any surface — glass, carpet, ceiling tile, etc. Eco-solvent based inks are aggressive and impregnate themselves into the media. Both inks deliver a high quality, long lasting print with the most vibrant colors possible.

Read more about inks used in large format printing here.

We start where most print shops leave off. Although we have the ability to print the smaller sized graphic requests, we specialize in producing large graphics including vehicle wraps, trade show displays and exhibits, full color outdoor banners, and much more.

Media is the material that your graphic is printed on. We print on many different types of media including banner material, adhesive backed vinyl, fabrics, backlit material, and many others.

Calendered Vinyl
General-purpose signs and graphics; moderate to good exterior durability. Greater production yields equals less cost. Stiffer/thicker film equals easier handling. Thickness of film increases resistance to abrasion. Intended for flat, smooth opaque application surfaces.

Cast Vinyl
Designed for maximum outdoor durability and conformability. Cast films also maintain their color and other properties better than other vinyl films. Better performance of pigments and UV absorbers, less shrinkage. Durability of cast films is generally higher than that of other vinyl films. Cast films can be made very thin which produces a conformable product that allows application over substrates with rivets, corrugations, and complex curves. Excellent for flat and irregular opaque application surfaces and vehicles.

Translucent
Formulated for illuminated signs and backlit displays. Intended for flat rigid, flex face applications, and maximum light transmission.

Reflective
Ideally suited to safety and commercial signs or vehicle graphics that require viewing both day and night.

Mirror Finish
Silver and gold with a polished chrome, matte, brushed, or specialty-textured surface.

Etched Frosted
Simulates the appearance of etched or sandblasted glass on window fronts, entry doors, and partitions.

Banner
Durable, flexible, tear and fade resistant material will withstand most weather conditions. Available in a variety of scrim, smooth, and mesh materials. Thickness of film increases resistance to abrasion.

Specialty
Variety of specialty media such as photo paper, artist canvas, perforated window film, static cling, street & wall graphics & more.

No Adhesive
Banners, photo paper, poster paper, and artist canvas typically do not have any adhesive.

Changeable
Changeable films can be removed without any aids such as heat or chemicals and without leaving adhesive residue.

Repositionable
Repositionable graphics have a low-tack adhesive that leaves no residue and can be reused like “Fat Heads.”

Semi-permanent
Some semi-permanent films can be removed with the aid of heat only. Others may require chemicals or accessories. These films leave less than 30% adhesive residue that can also be removed. Vehicle wraps are semi-permanent.

Permanent
Permanent films are not designed to be removed. In some cases they can be removed, but with great difficulty and likely damage to the substrate. If they are removed, they may leave significant adhesive residue. Decals and signage typically use permanent adhesives.

Static Cling
Designed for short-term indoor window or mirror graphics where no adhesion is required. Static cling graphics are repositionable and reusable.

Magnetic
Magnetic signs and decals can be “stuck” to any ferrous material and moved.

Laminate is applied on top of media, and in many cases helps further protect the graphic from abuse. We generally use a cold lamination film process and have a multitude of laminates, ranging from matte to high gloss that can be used depending on the use and application of the project. We also use liquid laminates on certain applications such as wall coverings.

Gloss/Satin/Matte
Laminates provide a high level of UV protection. They also protect prints from moisture and abrasion. Laminates can also be used to enhance the depth of the image.

Dry Erase
Dry erase laminates can turn any sign into dry erase. Great applications include menu boards, business presentations, and leader boards.

Anti-skid
Anti-skid laminates provide a slip-resistant surface on floor graphics. (UL classified #4R93 for slip resistance)

Anti-graffiti
Anti-graffiti laminates provide excellent resistance to chemicals and solvents. They allow for easy removal of graffiti.

Polycarbonate
Polycarbonate laminates provide scuff and UV resistance. They also provide rigidity and durability to vinyl banners and decals.

Substrates consist of foam-core, gatorboard, MDO board, plexiglass, alumacor, polystyrene, PVC, etc. Your adhesive backed graphics are mounted to these types of materials to add strength and rigidity.

Corrugated Plastic “Coroplast”
Durable because it is waterproof and resistant to stains and most chemicals. At regular temperatures most oils, solvents, and water have no effect, allowing it to perform under adverse weather conditions or as a product component exposed to harsh chemicals. Wide range of colors. 4mm is a common thickness; 10mm is very heavy and rigid. Coroplast is a popular brand.

Foam Core
Extruded polystyrene foam core laminated on both sides with heavy white or black smooth coated paper. Designed for interior mounting applications requiring rigid, lightweight, and relatively inexpensive material. Typically, foam core is used for short-term usage as it dents readily and does not hold up well to certain glues, such as superglue and some paints.

Ultra Board
Heavy-duty, all-plastic panel that features a litho-grade, high-impact polystyrene surface for permanent displays and signs. Ultra Board is designed primarily for interior use, but can be used outdoors, and it is durable. Dent-resistant styrene liners are secured to the foam center with a bond that keeps the panel flat and rigid. Moisture does not penetrate.

Poly-metal
Solid or corrugated plastic core with aluminum laminated to both surfaces. Extremely flat surface that will not warp or distort. Excellent durability in outdoor applications. Alumalite, Alumacor, Dibond, and Omega-bond are popular brand names.

Styrene
Extruded high impact material used primarily as an indoor panel or for outdoor usage up to 1 year.

Expanded PVC
Expanded PVC is lightweight, rigid board of moderately expanded closed-cell polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Low gloss matte finish. Will not rust, rot, peel, or absorb water. Suitable for display, exhibit, interior, or exterior signage and for photo mounting. Soften at about 150*F. This means that you can easily heat up thin (3mm or thinner) pieces and mold as needed. Sintra is popular brand name.

Magnetic Sheeting
Permanent magnetic sheet used primarily in vehicle magnetic signs. Vehicle magnetic signs are typically .030″ thick and 18″ x 24″. However, the largest magnetic sheet available is 24″ x 50″.

Sign board
Exterior grade wood products with a variety of aluminum, vinyl, or enamel surfaces. Excellent for exterior signage.

Acrylic
Lightweight, high optical quality, high impact strength, and excellent weather ability. Ideal for backlit signage.

Polycarbonate
Polycarbonates are Lightweight, high impact strength and excellent weather ability. They come in clear and white. Primarily known by the trademarked names Lexan, Makrolon, Makroclear and are a particular group of thermoplastic polymers. They are easily worked, molded, and thermoformed. Because of these properties, polycarbonates find many applications. Ideal for backlit signage.

Eco-Solvent (Mild Solvent)

Definition:
Inks using less toxic solvent-based carrier. Printers using eco-solvent inks emit less harmful VOCs (volatile organic compounds).

Mild solvent inks combine the durability advantages of true solvent ink with the environmental advantages of water-based ink.

Pros

• Less need for special ventilation
• Lesser wear and tear on printer components, such as print heads
• Cost is comparable to solvent-based ink
• Durability is comparable to solvent-based ink

Cons

• Due to less aggressive solvent, more drying time is required to adhere to materials
• Does not print on variety of materials as true solvent (like rigid PVC or high gloss materials)
• Often printers have a slower speed

UV Inks

Definition:
UV-curable inks are “cured” once they are exposed to wavelengths of UV light. The ink consists of a photo initiator, and when exposed to the UV light, it undergoes a chemical process that transforms the ink into a solid film that tightly adheres directly onto the substrate’s surface.

Essentially, during the curing process, the ink is transformed into a thin layer of plastic that acts as a top layer to the substrate it has been applied to.

The flatbed printing industry is dominated by UV Inks. UV Inks have the distinction from solvent inks based on their capability to print directly onto rigid substrates. Due to color and hardness, it is ideal for outdoor signage.

Pros

• Typically cheaper per ft/squared than solvent
• UV Ink system is environmentally friendly, containing little to no solvents
• Little to no odor
• Faster print speeds reduce production cost
• Due to ink being cured into a film, it is ideal for outdoor durable signage
• Unlike solvent printers, flatbed printers utilize UV Ink technology to print directly to rigid materials
• Instant curing allows for handling of material as soon as it leaves printer; allowing for faster turnaround in production environment
• UV Inks are better for the equipment itself, as it will not harden within the print components, but rather only when cured onto the material it is being applied to
• Does have capability to print on vinyl and banner, with the appropriate application

Cons

• UV Ink does not work with all substrates
• Finish of the ink is considered flat or matte
• UV Ink is not ideal for applications with high level of abrasion
• Lower image resolution than roll-to-roll printers
• UV Ink is less flexible than other ink systems, due to the cured ink being more brittle

Though cast vinyl and calendered vinyl look the same they have some very fundamental differences that are established during their creation that yield specific application limitations. These limitations are essential to know when selecting vinyl for various projects.

Calendered vinyl, which gets its name from the manufacturing process, is created from a series of basic raw materials which are run through a series of calendered rollers once it reaches a molten state. The process of being fed through these heavy rollers establishes the flat smooth surface that is calendered vinyl. This process is fantastic for high volume vinyl projects as it is quick and can yield a very large amount of vinyl. The one set back to this process is due to its original molten state as a ‘ball’ of material that is flattened, the vinyl retains a memory of this shape and when exposed to heat tends to slightly shrink. Though this ‘dimensional stability’ is not of the highest quality it is subtle and ideal for shorter term projects. This vinyl process tends to yield thicker vinyl which is ideal for durability during its use.

Cast Vinyl, also named after its production process. This vinyl though is prepared as a liquid and is poured into casts that are then run through a process to solidify the mixture. After the solvents have evaporated the vinyl is ready and since it was in a relaxed state during this process it does not have the tendencies to regain any other shape which offered high ‘dimensional stability’. As you can imagine this process is a bit more time-consuming and produces a vinyl that has a longer life span in addition to a difference set of specifications. Due to these factors it tends to be a higher quality material and a bit more expensive than its calendered alternative.

SpeedPro offers various vinyls of both selections, understanding the limitations and capabilities of our vinyl allow us to better serve the needs of our clients. The 3M Company is the leading manufacturer of Cast vinyl which has been established at the top choice vinyl for vehicle graphics. Additionally SpeedPro is on the certified vendor list for all 3M vehicle wrap vinyl and stocks the freshest vinyl and laminates for all vinyl projects.

Operating System

We run Adobe Creative Suite 4 on PC and primarily print from .eps or .tiff files. For more information about how to set up your files, please reference our file format sheet. We accept files in the following formats: .ai, .psd, .eps, .tif, .pdf, .jpg. Please note that flattened .pdf, and .jpg files cannot be edited. Whenever possible, provide Windows Compatible files.

If you use any program but Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator and cannot convert/export files to .EPS or .TIFF files, please convert to .PDF file. This typically includes Quark, InDesign, Corel, and miscellaneous sign programs.

Please build files as close to actual size as possible, or work in 1/2 or 1/4 scale of output size. It is not necessary to build files with extended bleed or crop marks. For best results, submit vector art and raster art in CMYK.

Font options

Convert all text to outlines or send all font sets included in file. Please provide highest resolution original versions of linked raster images.

We primarily request you convert all fonts to vector outlines or curves, depending on your program.

Feel free to send us the font files, in PC format. MAC fonts are incompatible with our system and therefore will not work.

Image Sharpness

If your graphics are primarily logos, text, and shapes, vector line art .EPS files provide the sharpest images in large format. Vector line art is based off x/y lines, curves and coordinates, you can enlarge the graphic as large as you like without losing resolution.

If your graphics are raster images (jpeg, tiff, bitmap, gif, etc.), please save files at 150-300dpi @ 100% file size for optimum clarity. Size file proportionately if you need to scale the image down, ex: 150dpi @ 100% = 600dpi @ 25%.

Images copied/pasted off the internet typically do not work well for large format.

Banner and Banner Stands

If you would like us to stitch your banners, please leave a 1.25″ bleed.

If you would like us to stitch banner pole pockets, please follow these directions:

• 4″ extra material required for .5″-.75″ diameter pole
• 6″ extra material required for 1″ diameter pole
• 8″ extra material required for 1.5″ diameter pole
• 9.5″ extra material required for 2″ diameter pole

The bleed for banner stands depends on the specific banner stand. Typically, a 2″ bleed will be needed along the bottom and 3/4″ at the top.

Sometimes people want to use images they find on an internet website that might be 200-300 pixels wide and cannot understand why the printer will not print a clear, crisp image. Obviously, it has nothing to do with the printer, but everything to do with the original artwork. It’s like the saying says – “garbage in, garbage out.”

Digital Print 101

There are two basic types of files- Raster (bitmaps) and Vector (outlines). For example, a photo is usually a Raster Image, and a font is usually a Vector or outline.

Vector file formats (scalable to any size UNLESS they contain bitmaps in addition to vector images) EPS (Encapsulated Postscript)

• AI (Adobe Illustrator)
• PDF (Acrobat)
• Raster/bitmap file formats (may not support being scaled to large sizes)
• TIF (or TIFF – Tagged Image File Format)
• JPG (or JPEG – Joint Photographic Experts Group)
• GIF (Graphics Interchange Format. Be careful of GIF files as these are most commonly used for websites and are usually not high enough resolution to be enlarged significantly)

There are a couple of additional considerations to keep in mind. While EPS, PS, and AI files commonly contain vector data, they can also include bitmap data as well. The opposite is not true. TIF’s, JPG’s, and GIF’s only carry raster data and do not carry any vector data. In addition, when working with JPG files, they use a compression scheme to reduce file size. (TIF’s may or may not use an optional file compression.) Resizing a JPG file compresses the image which means reduced quality. Bitmaps files are best as uncompressed TIF’s. The files are large, but there is no loss of quality when changes are saved.

The biggest difference between Raster and Vector file formats is that a vector image can be infinitely enlarged since the image is created without outlines or line segments and curves. The amount a Raster (bitmap) image can be enlarged depends on the original resolution, and accepted loss of clarity versus the accepted viewing distance. Raster images are commonly used for photographic images, but they are also a bit more complicated to set up and produce a quality large format print.

A Raster image (bitmap) is made up of tiny dots, and each dot can be one of many thousands, if not millions of colors. There are also two color modes or pallets – CYMK (Cyan, Yellow, Magenta, and Black) or RGB (Red, Green, and Blue.) Generally, the RGB color space is larger, and many RIP programs like this format to produce the most vibrant colors. I know this might seem odd, as the printer is a CYMK device. Eventually all files will be converted to CYMK by the RIP (Raster Image Processor) program when it outputs to the printer. Nonetheless, starting with RGB files and letting the RIP make this conversion will generally produce the most vibrant images.

Raster images also have limitations on how much it can be enlarged depending on the original file’s resolution. We recommend keeping the final output resolution between 100 and 200 DPI (dots per inch) at FULL SIZE. Below 100 DPI and you will start to see a sacrifice of quality. Over 200 DPI, you are probably wasting hard drive space and processing time. (Unless you are printing 4 point type and the print is to be viewed from a very close distance.) This file resolution is not to be confused with print resolution. Even though our input files are 100-200 DPI, we typically print at least 360 DPI and more often 720 DPI. This ensures the smallest droplet and lack of graininess.

One exception might be on a billboard or a tractor-trailer. These areas are so large, that a 200 DPI input file will be too large for most computers to deal with. When working in Photoshop, these files can swell over 1 Gigabyte.

A high-end camera in today’s market may be as high as 12-Megapixels or more. (1 Megapixel = 1 million pixels). A 12-Megapixel camera, for example, may have a resolution of 4288 pixels wide x 2848 pixels high. In keeping our file within our 100 DPI guideline, the maximum size we can output with minimal distortion is 42.88″ wide (4288 pixels wide divided by 100). The larger the original image and the more pixel data you have, the more leeway you have to work with. With this much pixel data, we can go a reasonable amount larger than 42.88″ and still achieve good results. Keep in mind, the larger we go from the original, the fuzzier and more pixilated the final output will be.

The next consideration is how much fuzziness is acceptable. It depends on how the image is viewed. Just as you would not be viewing an 8 1/2″ x 11″ piece of paper from 40 feet, you would also not expect to view a tractor-trailer from 6″. Billboards would be another extreme and their resolution might be as low as 2 to 20 DPI. However, the billboard might be 40 feet in the air, and viewed from many hundreds of feet away, thus the resolution can be much, much less.

SpeedPro uses special software to smooth out the “jaggies” of less than optimal files. The software has proprietary algorithms to create better enlargements than Photoshop, as long as there is sufficient pixel data. It cannot perform miracles, but it can make a significant improvement.

The larger the original image, the more we can enlarge the image and maintain the crispness. Keep in mind, the larger we go from the original, the fuzzier and pixilated the final output will be.

The ideal resolution is 300 DPI (dots per inch.) Nevertheless, resolution of 100 DPI, if the viewing distance is greater than 10 feet, or 150 DPI, if less, should be adequate.

The following table translates the pixel count of the original image for typical internet files and digital cameras at different DPI levels to show the final image size. Note internet images typically do not contain many pixels.

Here is an example, when following the 100 DPI, full-size guideline: If you take a file that starts out at 600 pixels wide, the largest you can print, keeping to the 100 DPI rule is 6 inches. (Divide 600 pixels by 100 = 6″). Of course, it is possible to enlarge the file to a much larger size in Photoshop, but this just multiplies the pixels around each other, and you will just create a fuzzy mess. Photoshop will just take each pixel and create a new pixel next to it, halfway in color to the next, and so on. This is why most website images are not useable for large format output. There is just not enough pixel data. Website graphics are created at as small a resolution as possible to create a reasonable image to view on a monitor and reduce bandwidth. This makes the website load as quickly as possible.

We can provide complete graphic design services or make changes to an existing design for an hourly charge. Our graphic designers have experience in everything from simple banners to complex trade show displays and vehicle wraps. Our graphics team can clean up rough edges, alter many types of text, and modify your graphic exactly the way you need it.

We can match colors with high accuracy. Although digital printers do not print PMS and RGB colors, our production team will match spot colors upon request. Printed colors may look slightly different depending on materials. We can provide proofs before production runs.

Royalty-free images can be purchased from the following providers. However, let us check by how much images can be enlarged before you purchase them.

• www.istockphoto.com
• www.shutterstock.com
• www.bigstockphoto.com
• www.dreamstime.com
• www.masterfile.com
• www.gettyimages.com

To stitch the pocket for pole or boulevard banners, please allow the following extra material:

• 4″ extra material required for .5″-.75″ diameter pole
• 6″ extra material required for 1″ diameter pole
• 8″ extra material required for 1.5″ diameter pole
• 9.5″ extra material required for 2″ diameter pole

SpeedPro banners include:

• Full Color Banners
• Retail Banners
• Vinyl Banners
• Smooth Banners
• Double-sided Banners
• Back lit Banners
• Mesh Banners
• Custom Banners
• Retractable Banners
• Outdoor Banners
• Scrim Banners
• Pole Pocket Banners
• Business Banners
• Banners Stands

Banners can be printed on either matte or gloss media.

Our standard banner material meets NFPA 701. We can provide documentation of test results.

Application
Make contact with the floor, with one edge of the decal. While peeling back the backer paper, slowly squeegee the decal to the floor. When you squeegee, work from the center, outwards toward the edges, and from the top, down in overlapping strokes. Note: The surface must be entirely dust free and the surface temperature must be above 60*F.

Removal
The angle at which you pull off the decal is important to ensure no residue remains on the floor. The decal should be pulled off at a high pull-off angle. (Back on top of itself.)

For best results on contour-cut wall graphics, we may need to leave a 1/4″ to 1/2″ unprinted white border all the way around to minimize potential edge curl.

Surface Preparation

When preparing a wall for a graphic, it is important to understand that not all surfaces are suitable for vinyl film application. Wall graphics can only successfully be applied to surfaces that are clean, dry, smooth and non-porous. Any of the following conditions can cause poor adhesion or product failure:

• Highly textured paint
• Poor initial paint bond
• Poorly painted wall edges
• Patched areas that have not been primed
• Moisture behind the drywall, which can cause the drywall paper to release. Watch for walls that back up to cooling systems, water pipes, overhead windows and windows that have been boarded up. These areas are prone to condensation that may not be obvious at the time of installation.
• High humidity areas such as garages, entryways and bathrooms
• Dust, dirt or other contaminants on the wall
• Wallpaper or other wall covering that is not securely bonded to the wall
• Cuts made to the graphic during the installation process that penetrate both film and substrate
• Freshly painted walls that have not had ample time to cure (3 weeks). Wall graphics tend to bubble and release from the wall while paint is in the curing process.
• If your wall is to be newly painted, the goal is to achieve a good bond between the substrate and the primer/paint. When applying the primer, it is important to use a high quality, oil-based primer such as those available from Kilz or Zinsser. Once the primer is dry apply two coats of a high quality Satin or Semi-Gloss paint to ensure a cohesive bond between the paint and primer. For best results, avoid applying graphics to heavily tinted paints which have more than 1 oz. of tint per gallon of paint. The surfactants and colorants that make up darker paint colors tend to need longer periods to leach or outgas. Avoid matte finish latex paints and paints that use anti-graffiti agents. When applying the paint, use a 3/8″ nap roller cover to reduce stippling.

Installation

Once the paint has had ample time to cure, it’s important to clean the surface immediately before applying the film. Dust and other contaminants can collect quickly on the wall and prevent the film from adhering properly. Wipe down the wall with a dry tack cloth or a lint-free microfiber cloth to remove any dust, paying special attention to the wall’s edges and corners.

When installing your graphic, always use a dry application method; under no circumstances should a wet application be used. Wall graphics are installed using the same techniques as any other installation.

Lay the graphic, image-side down, on a flat surface and pull back the liner about 3 inches. Sharply crease the liner while holding it away from the adhesive. Align the graphic on the wall and use finger pressure to tack in place. Using a squeegee, work from the center to the edge, then return to the center and work to the opposite edge. Use overlapping strokes while applying a small portion of the graphic at a time. If your graphic is made up of more than one panel, avoid using horizontal seams when possible. When the entire graphic has been applied to the wall, re-squeegee the edges of the graphic to ensure a good bond. (If the graphic will come into contact with regular cleaning, such as mopping, soil removal, etc., graphics should be sealed in those areas. This is especially important where the graphic is terminated at the floor. Use of a clear silicone sealant along the edges of the graphic is recommended.)

Care & Maintenance

In order to maintain your wall graphic’s original appearance, clean the graphic using only a mild soap and water solution. DO NOT use products that contain bleach or petroleum-based ingredients. If the graphic will need to be cleaned frequently, lamination is required to maintain print integrity.

Graphics should be hand-cleaned only. Clean graphic beginning at the top and work down.

Use lint-free cloth rags or sponges for cleaning. Do not use scrubbing pads or scouring sponges.

To remove difficult items such as lipstick or crayon, choose a citrus-based cleaner to remove the stain, then immediately rinse with mild soap and water solution (not recommended for un-laminated graphics).

If your wall graphic has seams be sure that you DO NOT wipe cleaning solution into the seam. This could cause the edges to lift and curl up from the wall.

After cleaning graphic, use dry lint-free micro-fiber cloths for drying.

While we can make magnets any size, typical vehicle magnet sizes are as follows:

• 12″ high by 18″ wide
• 12″ high by 24″ wide
• 18″ high by 24″ wide

Long-term use on surfaces frequently exposed to sunlight (such as vehicles) can result in uneven fading of the surface because the magnet-covered area is shielded from rays.

Installation

• When applying magnetic signs to your vehicle, ensure that the surface area of the vehicle is completely free of dust, dirt, grease, or other contaminates. A dirty surface will hinder adhesion.
• Ensure that no part of the vehicle surface contains Bondo or body filler, as this will weaken adhesion.
• Magnetic signs will not adhere to vehicle surfaces that are of non-metallic composition (i.e. fiberglass, high-density plastic, etc.)
• Before affixing a magnetic sheet to a surface, be sure all surface paints, clear coats and waxes are cured. (Approximate curing time: paint – 90 days; clear coat – 60 days; wax – 2 days.)
• Ensure that you order the proper sized magnetic signs. They should not cover body moldings or grooves, nor extend beyond the contours of the vehicle.

Removal

• Never leave the magnetic signs on the vehicle while unattended. This may result in the magnetic signs being stolen.
• Magnetic signs with dark background colors cannot remain on the vehicle for extended periods during hot seasons.
• Your magnetic sign must be removed at least once a week.

Storage and Care

• Remove the magnet frequently and clean both the magnet and the metal surface. Use mild detergent; wipe with a soft cloth or allow to air-dry. This will guard against moisture and dirt build-up between the magnet and the metal surface.
• Do not stack with magnetic sides facing each other.
• Store the signs in a flat, dry and warm place.
• Never bend or fold magnetic signs as this may result in permanent damage. They must remain completely flat. Bends or bubbles in the magnetic signs may allow air to lift the magnet from the surface of the vehicle.
• If slight folds or creases occur by accident, lay the magnetic signs down on a flat surface and soften with the heat from a blow dryer.
• There are a number of steps to follow in order to ensure that your magnetic signs stay in good shape. For this reason, it is not possible to offer any guarantees on lost, stolen, or damaged magnetic. Our guarantee extends only to the adhesion of our vinyl graphics to the surface of the magnetic material. However, by following the above noted guidelines your magnetic sign should last a long time!

Letter Visibility Chart

These distances will vary approximately 10% with various color combinations

New MUTCD Requirements for Street Signs:

• Minimum reflectivity of High Intensity
• Combination of upper & lower case letters
• Font Style must be “Clearview”

Other MUTCD Street Sign Recommendations:

• Roads with Speed Limit of 40 mph or less
  • 6″ initial letter height
• Roads with Speed Limit of 25 mph or less
  • 4″ initial letter height
• Roads with Speed Limit of 40 mph of greater
  • 8″ initial letter height for post mounted signs
  • 12″ letter height for overhead street name signs

Key Reasons for New Retroreflectivity Requirements:

• Signs more visible to nighttime drivers
  • More than 50% of fatal traffic accidents occur at night
• Signs more visible to older drivers
  • 65 year old drivers require 4 times the amount of light to see a sign at night as a 25 year old driver
• Signs more visible in inclement weather

Timeline to Implement New Requirements:

• January 22, 2012
  • Roadway owners must have a sign management plan in place
• January 22, 2015
  • Regulatory, Warning and Post-Mounted signs must meet retroreflectivity requirements
• January 22, 2018
  • Street Name signs must meet retroreflectivity requirements
  • If signs meet retroreflectivity requirements and are in all capital letters, they may remain in service for the remainder of their useful life
    • After the end of their useful life signs should be replaced with a combination of upper & lower case letters

Potential Funding For New Requirement Upgrades:

• Surface Transportation Program (STP)
  • Provides flexible funding for States and localities for projects on any Federal-aid highway
  • Can use for improvement of signs and pavement markers
    • Can be used on public roads not classified as local or rural minor collectors
  • www.fhwa.dot.gov/safetealu/factsheets/stp.htm
• Highway Safety Improvement Program (HSIP)
  • Program focused on reducing traffic fatalities and injuries on public roads
  • $1.25 billion annually go to states
  • To be eligible for HSIP funds, the improvement of highway signs must be:
    • Identified as a priority in the State’s Strategic Highway Safety Plan
    • And, correct a hazardous road location or address a highway safety problem
    • And, the locations for potential safety improvements must be identified through a data-driven process
  • safety.fhwa.dot.gov/hsip/

Levels of Reflective Signs:

RA Type I Engineer Grade Prismatic – EGP Reflective:

• Material reflects at night when light hits it
• Signs will not rust
• 5-7 year life
• For non-critical signs

HIA Type III High Intensity Prismatic – HIP Reflective:

• Material reflects at night when light hits it
• Ten times more reflective than Type I
• Signs will not rust
• 10 year average life
• Meets most State and Federal D.O.T. specifications

DG Type XI Diamond Grade Prismatic – DG Reflective:

• Material highly reflects at night when light hits it
• Ten times more reflective than Type I
• Signs will not rust
• 10+ year average life depending on color
• Meets most State and Federal D.O.T. specifications

Required Reflectivity Levels:

• For parking signs
  Use engineer grade reflective film
• For any traffic or street name signs
  Use high intensity prismatic or diamond grade reflective film

Your traffic devices must conform to the Manual on Uniform Traffic Control Devices (MUTCD)

• If the public travels on private property that you own or manage
• Includes shopping centers, offices and apartment complexes

Personal Injury or loss of life in an area where traffic signs fail to comply with new Federal standards, will result in exposure to tort liability.

Visit 3M for more information regarding minimum reflectivity bylaws.

There are numerous modular display systems on the market, but the most popular is commonly called a Truss System. A Truss System uses aluminum sections that are interlocking and allow for an endless array of setups. With a Truss System kit, you can choose a base exhibit layout and have the flexibility to adjust it or add on to it over time. For exhibitors that need a professional-grade exhibit and desire to have expandability, modularity, and flexibility while still being able to handle all the booth assembly themselves, a Truss modular display is an excellent option that will last for a long time.

Many inexpensive banner stands and exhibit structures do not hold up well to repeated use or transportation. Replacing metal parts with plastic, or quality plastic with inexpensive plastic, is a common method for reducing cost and subsequent prices. Therefore, the risk is that the product will not last long. Quality stands and exhibits are never that much of a premium over the least expensive similar options, so it is highly recommended to go with a better quality display. Saving a little money will not help you when you arrive at the show with a broken display.

Yes. A professional can remove and replace a banner in a retractable stand. Unless the stand and banner leader is damaged or worn, this is not difficult. To do this correctly and effectively, experience and the correct tools and materials are required, so it is not advised that clients attempt to change their own banners.

There are stands that offer easy to change cartridges that house professionally installed banners. This is a great option for clients who need to use a stand with multiple banners/images specific to differing shows and audiences.

Many show sites give the exhibitor a pipe-and-drape finish. On this, it is easy to use cord or zip ties to attach a banner at the back of your booth. A pole pocket in the bottom of the banner with a dowel or PVC tube provides ballast. Double-sided tape or Velcro can be used if there is a solid wall behind the display.

There are also a wide variety of backdrop systems available such as Pop-Ups, Hop-Ups, and banner backdrop hangers that we will be glad to assist you with.

Nothing happens if you do not get attention, so first be sure your visual and visual placement is going to be seen and attract attention. In addition, the image of the visual has to be consistent with you, your company, and your prospect’s interests. In combination, you want to have high-quality images that grab the attention of your audience in a professional way consistent with your brand.

A retractable banner stand is a canister or cartridge that holds a banner similar to a roll-up window shade or roll-up projector screen. A spring-loaded mechanism inside, on which the banner is attached, is the key piece.

The top of the banner is secured into a top cross bar used to keep the banner from rolling up entirely into the cartridge. With a stable base and a fixed or telescopic pole, the banner is pulled from the cartridge and attached to the pole for the complete display.

A table skirt is a fabric panel that covers the entire table (typically a 6′ or 8′ table). While most shows will provide a standard colored table skirt, the area in front of your display table is prime visual real estate you should use for branding and image building. Hanging a banner over the front of the table, or using a custom printed table skirt that goes completely over the table are great ways to take advantage of the space. Skirts are generally fitted to a specific table size and are screen printed or dye-sublimated with your custom graphics.

Runners hang from the back side of the table, over and down the front of the table. Usually, there is a table throw under the runner. Runners are typically: 36″, 48″ or 60″ wide.

A banner stand describes a wide range of fixtures designed to display a vinyl or cloth banner. Basic types are categorized as tension banner holders, adjustable rod frames, telescopic pole, and retractable stands.

Tension Banner Holders are simple five-point frames to display a banner. Four corner bolts go through and secure corner grommets in the banner and the tension pulls the banner tight. Other than hanging or taping a banner up, these are the most economical banner stands.

Adjustable Rod Frames are simple aluminum stands with telescopic vertical side poles with a telescopic horizontal pole from which the banner hangs. Using pole pockets on the top and bottom of the banner, it hangs and the weight of the rod placed in the bottom pocket helps pull it tight. Some advanced systems use attachment devices at the bottom, and some are modular and adjustable for many sizes and angles.

Telescopic Pole Stands work by suspending the banner, which is attached to a horizontal bar across the top, which is supported by the pole. The base is a tripod, and tension is created by the bottom of the banner being fixed with a cross piece that is attached to the base.

Retractable Banner Stands are the most popular devises for displaying banners. The banner rolls up on a spring-loaded core inside the aluminum cartridge. It pulls out and goes back in like a projector screen or window shade. These stands are easy to set up and take down, are easy to transport in a simple lightweight case, and these protect the banner from wear and tear much better than any other system. While there are some economy models available, be careful as these are mechanical devices…if the mechanisms fail, your stand will not work very well (or at all). There is not much difference in cost between a premium, high-quality stand and the cheapest you can find…so get a little insurance by spending a bit more. The difference between a good, economy stand and a premium, interchangeable cartridge stand should be less than $200.

Retractable banner stands work great alone, or used in groups. There are single and double-sided stands and a variety of heights and widths.

Many shows and event only allow room for a tabletop exhibit, typically a 6′ or 8′ table. Creating a professional exhibit in this environment can range from quality-mounted graphics displayed on an easel all the way to full pop-up systems. There are many styles of foldout tabletop systems as well. These are easily carried in their case and they set up and come down quickly and easily. Graphics are very easily changed and updated as well.

You must create a professional look with a tabletop display (or small booth footprint), so quality graphics and professional-grade fixtures should be the norm. Avoid copies and graphics made with your desktop printer!

Pop-Up systems are sometimes called expandable, collapsible or ‘spider web’ frame systems. These aluminum frames expand out to form the structure on which panels of fabric or printed graphics hang. These systems range in size from small tabletop units to modular units that can create straight or curved exhibits. With fabric panels, the graphics are produced on Styrene or similar panels and are attached with Velcro tabs. This gives a very high degree of variability in graphics as well as easy updating of graphics. Graphics that are more common are produced with matte laminated polyester film prints and the systems specific hanger pieces are attached directly to these panels.

It is highly recommended to use a wheeled, hard plastic case to store and transport pop-up systems and their graphics. The total set up is fairly heavy and cumbersome to transport without a case and the risk of graphics damage becomes quite high. With a wheeled case, it is easy for one person to transport a full 10′ system, set-up and tear down all on their own.

A unique method of getting added attention in your booth is to use the floor. With carpet-specific adhesive vinyl and the ability to cut specific, custom shapes, we can help you create an entry graphics that is on the floor and bound to get attention. There are many unique applications for this material, and the costs are quite low.

Most modern systems for booths are not designed to require professional installation and are easy to use. It depends on budget, size, and number of people (and time) for set up and take down. One person can easily handle retractable banner stands, tabletop displays, pop-up and hop-up systems, and common backdrops. All such systems are light and can be carried in a case, or should be handled with wheeled cases.

Vehicle wraps are a new, innovative approach to advertising your business. They act as a moving, 3D billboard and work 24 hours a day to create awareness for your company and to reach out to new customers.

A wrap is a large vinyl graphic or decal. The graphics are printed on this vinyl, which is designed specifically for vehicle graphics, and then typically laminated with a protective coat that gives a final gloss, matte, or luster finish.

The vinyl is applied directly over the original paint of the vehicle and it actually helps protect the paint.

A wrap is easily removed even after several years to return the vehicle to its original condition.

Vehicle wraps are the most cost-effective advertising method in existence. The cost per impression (CPI) of vehicle wraps is less than other forms of advertising such as billboards, television, radio and yellow pages.

Vehicle wraps can improve the appearance of a vehicle. A wrap will rejuvenate the look of your older vehicle to look new or match others in a fleet. Digitally printed vehicle wraps can be duplicated more easily than traditional methods like paint and airbrushing.

Effective wraps with high resolution graphics have been proven to increase conscious awareness of a brand by more than 48% over simple vehicle lettering.

Statistical Data from Sign Industry Magazine.

• Vehicle signage gets about 8.4 million impressions per year
• Radio attracts 900,000 listeners in six weeks with 10 to 12 30-second spots
• Direct mail reaches 20,000 names with one mailer
• Billboards get 700,000 impressions per month.
• Vehicle wraps are one of the mediums that people make an effort to view.

In most cases, vehicle wraps will not damage factory paint jobs. Typically, the wrap will actually protect your paint and leave it in far better condition had you not wrapped the vehicle. It is important to talk with us and pre-test your paint job prior to wrapping with vinyl. Paint in poor condition may peel when vinyl is removed. New paint needs several weeks to cure before a wrap is installed.

Design
Design is the most critical and time-consuming part of the vehicle wrap process.

We encourage our clients to focus on the purpose of the vehicle wrap. We have found that simple, but deliberate designs work best. Vehicle wrapping is advertising at a glance. If it isn’t immediately obvious what the message is, it isn’t doing its job.

Communication is essential to ensure your vehicle wrap is designed properly per your needs. The first step for you is to meet with our graphic designers to discuss your objectives and ideas.

SpeedPro creates its own templates for better fit of graphics than “purchased templates” that most others use. Once the graphics are printed, we cannot change measurements, so we prefer to ‘measure twice and cut once’. Accordingly, we will need to measure and photograph your vehicle and create our own template. Measuring and inspecting the vehicle also allows us an opportunity to identify design elements specific to your vehicle and anticipate how the graphics will land on contours and obstructions like door handles, mirrors, windows, rubber trim, moldings porous plastics and doors.

With the measurements of the vehicle, SpeedPro can provide a firm quote for the wrap. Upon acceptance, a 50% deposit is due.

If you do not have high resolution images, SpeedPro work with you to obtain images. With our precisely scaled template of the vehicle, SpeedPro will then lay out the design of that wrap so that the graphics are accurately placed and can effectively advertise your message. SpeedPro will send proofs to you for your review and comment.

Production
Once the wrap is “designed”, the graphics are printed on special adhesive vinyl and then laminated to protect the vinyl from abrasions and UV rays that can cause graphics to fade over time. The time to print and laminate is usually three to four days to allow proper drying of the ink.

Preparation
We highly recommend that vehicles be washed in a car wash a few hours before they are brought into our facility for graphics installation. The vehicle should be washed preferably at a place that can use brushes or pressure washing to remove road grime from the low-lying parts under the wheel well, inside the door panels, etc., where dirt usually accumulates. (Wax, polish, grease, or grime interferes with the graphics adhesive and therefore must be cleaned off).

Once the vehicle is brought to our facility, we perform a detailed pre-wrap vehicle inspection and take note of the places that have any kind of surface damage such as paint scratches, dents, etc. We then clean the vehicle with chemicals to remove any remaining oily residue, dirt, and contaminants.

Installation
The graphics are applied in panels, (like a jigsaw puzzle). Film overlap and accurate alignment of the graphic sections will ensure excellent presentation and longevity of the product.

Proofs are created on a flat surface and viewed at a relatively small size on a computer screen. Consequently, the wrap may vary slightly from the proofs. The installer may need to make on-the-spot adjustments to assure maximum readability.

Depending on your schedule, we can install during business hours, over night or over a weekend in our climate controlled studio. Our installation crew usually completes a typical installation in 8 hours. Occasionally, we need a vehicle a second time a few days later to replace any graphics that did not fit correctly or install properly. Upon completion, the remaining balance is due.

Our certified installers are very careful not to damage your vehicle during installation; however, they will be working with razors near your car. This can occasionally result in minor scratches to the paint that can typically be buffed out by any vehicle detailing company.

Wrap Durability/Warranty
Our wraps come with a 3-year warranty on the vinyl, as long as it has been applied to the original factory paint job, and a 1-year warranty on the window graphics. Warranties do not apply to damage done to the vehicle or wear and tear.

Wrap Removal
When your wrap is eventually removed, there should be no damage to the paint job, if it is the original factory paint on the vehicle. If there is damaged paint areas or if the vehicle has been repainted, there is a risk of peeling upon removal.

Check with your leasing company, but generally YES.

Four factors determine the cost of a wrap:

1. The amount of material required (specific vehicle/coverage)
2. The amount of design time and photo acquisition required
3. The complexity (or simplicity) of installation
4. The quality of the vinyl and laminate (will affect the longevity of the wrap)

Wraps can cover the entire vehicle or you can opt to cover only specific areas of your vehicle. Anything less than a full wrap is normally called a “partial wrap.” A common partial wrap begins at the driver door and goes all around, with no graphics on the roof, hood, or front quarter panels. Often a logo or other graphics is installed separately on the hood and doors. With some tall vehicles, it is not an effective investment to cover the roof; however, the design needs to consider this as the underlying paint color needs to be considered. The most valuable space is the rearview of the vehicle as this is viewed as a ‘constant’ by vehicles behind and can thus be read and make a greater impression. A typical full wrap on a car is $2,500 to $3,000. The price of a partial wrap would be proportional to a full wrap.

No matter the conditions, SpeedPro graphics are made to last. All of our vehicle wraps are printed with premium, outdoor-durable, and UV resistant inks on high-quality 3M media and installed by an experienced professional.

Any base color on a vehicle can be wrapped; but, a black vehicle is preferred because it helps hide any areas that may not match the vinyl graphics such as around the doors, moldings and gas cap filler door.

Yes, on a full wrap it is normal to have an occasional wrinkle due to complex curves and ridges in the body shape. Just like a new paint job, if you inspect it close enough you can find flaws. However, a professionally designed and installed wrap will look immaculate to the common viewing eye. There are many techniques to reduce imperfections when wrapping, which is why we use professional full-time wrap installation experts, but even the best installers cannot eliminate all wrinkles on severely concave or rounded surfaces.

Since not all bubbles, wrinkles and seams can be avoided, a “busy” design with lots of shapes and colors can help to hide these flaws.

If your business changes phone numbers or logos, overlay graphics can be printed applied directly on an existing wrap.

Damaged pieces or panels of your vehicle wrap can be replaced after your vehicle is repaired.

Matching colors and exactly lining up graphics can be a challenge. Sometimes an overlaid patch may not blend effectively as color can fade over time. Replacing the entire area of a body panel may look better than just a “patch”.

Installing a vehicle wrap is a difficult process that demands a high level of expertise. Unless you have been trained (YouTube isn’t sufficient) and have experience installing a wrap, you will not be happy with the wrinkles and bubbles which are almost certain to happen, particularly on complex curves. This is why we require all of our installers to be professionally trained and certified.

You can see through window graphics that are printed on perforated window film, “Window Perf”. Window perf vinyl is perforated with very small holes that allow you to see out. It also gives you the benefit of acting as a tinting to reduce heat in your interior and to prohibit people seeing into the car (which can be a security benefit for many businesses).

From inside the vehicle, visibility is similar to regular window tint. From the outside, the graphic is visible. We use an optically clear over-laminate on all window perf. This keeps dirt from settling into the holes and allows water to flow over the perf more easily, which helps visibility in the rain.

General Guidelines

• Wait one week after your vehicle wrap installation to wash.
• Leave windows up for three days if you have window graphics. Thereafter, avoid rolling windows down as much as possible.
• Never use a rear-window wiper on a wrapped window as it leaves a wear pattern in the laminate.
• Hand wash using a soft towel or sponge and mild soap is best. Do not use corrosives or solvents (i.e. alcohol). Waxing is not advised and could damage the finish.
• If a car wash is to be used, avoid high-pressure washes. Only use a soft brush car wash.
• Sweeping off windows with a soft broom and rear defroster will not cause damage to window graphics. Never use an ice scraper.
• To prolong life of the graphic, it is best to keep it under cover when not in use.
• In the event of natural wear and tear over time, please contact us in order to purchase vinyl or window replacements.

Specific Guidelines

1. Wash regularly

• Wash whenever the car appears dirty. Contaminants allowed to remain on the graphic may be more difficult to remove during cleaning.
• Rinse off as much dirt and grit as possible with a spray of water.
• See item 4, Difficult contaminants, for spot cleaning bird droppings, tar, etc.
• Use a wet, non-abrasive detergent such as 3M Car Wash Soap 39000 or Meguiar’s NXT Generation Car Wash or Deep Crystal Car Wash and a soft, clean cloth or sponge.
• Rinse thoroughly with clean water. To reduce water spotting, immediately use a silicone squeegee to remove water and finish with a clean microfiber cloth.

2. Automated car washes Brush-type car washes are not recommended as they can abrade the film and cause edges to lift or chip, as well as dulling the film’s appearance.

• Brushless car washes are acceptable.

3. Pressure washing

Although hand washing is the preferred cleaning method, pressure washing may be used under these conditions:

• Ensure the water pressure is kept below 2000 psi (14 MPa).
• Keep water temperature below 80*C (180*F).
• Use a spray nozzle with a 40 degree wide angle spray pattern.
• Keep the nozzle at least 1 foot (300 mm) away from and perpendicular (at 90 degrees) to the graphic.

Important Note! Holding the nozzle of a pressure washer at an angle to the graphic may lift the edges of the film.

4. Difficult contaminants

Soften difficult contaminants such as bug splatter, bird droppings, tree sap and similar contaminants by soaking them for several minutes with very hot, soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and dry. If further cleaning is needed, test one of these products in an inconspicuous area to ensure no damage to the graphics: Meguiar’s Gold ClassBug and Tar Remover or 3M Citrus Base Cleaner. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) (two parts IPA to 1 part water) or denatured alcohol may also help. Spot clean the contaminants. Do not use rough scrubbing or abrasive tools, which will scratch the film. Wash and rinse off all residue immediately.

5. Fuel spills

Wipe off immediately to avoid degrading the vinyl and adhesive. Then wash, rinse and dry as in Item 1 as soon as possible.

6. Polish and wax

Most standard graphic films and over laminates can be polished or waxed with a high quality car wax. Before use, test and approve in an inconspicuous area. Do not use any abrasive polishes or cutting compounds.

For the carbon fiber and brushed metal films in Scotchprint Wrap Film Series 1080, a polishing product such as 3M Tire Restorer or Meguiars Natural Shine Protectant may be used. We do not recommend any polishing or wax product for the matte or textured films.

7. Store indoors or under cover whenever possible

Vinyl graphics (just like paint) are degraded by prolonged exposure to sun and atmospheric pollutants, particularly on the horizontal surfaces such as hood, trunk lid and roof. Whenever possible, store in a garage or at least in a shaded area during the day. At night protect the car from dew or rain, which may contain acidic pollutants (a common problem in many large metropolitan areas). When a garage is not available, consider using a cloth car cover at night. If your graphics start to discolor or turn brown (which is caused by acidic pollution), immediately remove the graphics from the vehicle to avoid staining the underlying paint.

Getting your design right takes more time than any other phase. It is critical. The design can take a couple of days or a couple of weeks; it depends on the clarity of your ‘vision’ and your availability for quick feedback to design proofs. Once we have an approved final design, we move into production and confirm the installation schedule. From the day of approved art, it can be as quick as 4 to 5 days to complete the installation.

We do not normally wrap personal vehicles. Solid color wraps (such as the popular matte black or carbon fiber wraps) requires more labor and attention to finishing details than do full-color vehicle wraps. With full-color wrap graphics, the vehicle’s original paint color often blends in visually in locations such as door seams where the wrap doesn’t cover the paint. On the other hand with solid color wraps, the vehicle’s original paint may be very noticeable if all the seams haven’t been fully covered. Consequently, a solid color vehicle wrap will cost 25-35% more than a full-color vehicle wrap of the same vehicle because of the additional labor involved in hiding the seams.

SpeedPro has a partnership with 3M. This direct relationship allows SpeedPro access to significant resources and better pricing than other large format printers.